Inpromptu Tequila Tasting with Ocho Tequila

By Nightclub & Bar

If Tales is about the cocktail, then it makes sense that at an Absinthe tasting from some of the top wormwood brands, I get an opportunity to take part in a totally under the table and impromptu tequila tasting. As the absinthe fountains slowly drip and drink-tasters start to get their first tingle from the green fairy, I find myself in a corner of the room, behind some tasting stations with some fairly esteemed company based from all over the globe including Drew Levinson, with Wirtz Beverage Group, and former mixologist for the world famous Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas, as well Treys Ladrido, corporate beverage director for Singapore's MENU Group who operates several concepts including the nation's top tequila bar, Cafe Iguana, which boasts an impressive 200+ tequila labels.

Altamar Brand's west coast brand development boss, Bill Haskin, slyly looks around the room before pulling several bottles from his carrier bag, he's there promoting his Kubler Absinthe but I've put him on the spot and always the gentlemen, he is obliging. I'll admit it; I’m a junky for the agave juice and tend to stick to what I know including Casa Nobles Tequila and a brand formerly marketed by Altamar, Corralejo Tequila. A few years back I was lucky enough to travel to Mexico with Altamar's founder and Brown Foreman descendant, Lyons Brown III who immersed me in the nuances of the product and I have been a fan ever since. Altamar eventually sold their marketing rights to their partner in the venture and the product's importer, Infinium Spirits and set their sights on a boutique brand, Tequila Ocho, which is the world's only single estate, vintage tequila. Each bottle is numbered with the year of the vintage and the estate from which the agave for that batch was grown. The whole concept is more related to the wine industry than tequila, and I am intrigued.

Haskin, who was a successful operator overseeing cocktail-focused venues such as The Starlight Room in San Francisco and The Side Bar in Las Vegas, is clearly succeeding on the supplier side of the business with an impressive blend of knowledge and passion and he isn't shy to jump into the selling points of the brand: the product is made by third generation tequilero Felipe Camarena, every part of the product process is done in the traditional fashion, the agave is hand-picked, males separated from the females, cooked in a stone oven for 48-hours under low heat, crushed with a tahona, open air fermentation, double distilled first in stainless steel then a small copper pot still. My head is spinning, and my mouth starts to salivate as I eye the bottles with an eagle's intensity, I can't wait to taste it.

He grabs the 2008 Ocho Plata (silver) and continues the education session while pouring reasonable tasting samples into whatever glassware we can find without impacting the Absinthe tasting going on around us. "It takes eight days from when the Plata is picked until it is bottle, that's where the name Ocho came from," Haskin continues as he hands us our samples, "The 08 comes from our El Carrizal estate, which is located more than 6,000 feet above sea level. Go ahead," he adds with a smile, "Taste it." The spiciness and mint notes jump out of the glass and envelope me in a delicious aroma. "This vintage is why I fell in love with this product," Ladrido says before telling us how it captivated her at the Australian Bar Awards, "What I had thought was a brief moment turned out to be a good 20 minutes. Three awards were announced in that time and I didn't have a clue. The 2008 Ocho plata had captured me." When I ask what about this vintage is getting her so fired up, she quickly responds, "The finish on this vintage, its such a true representation of agave." Levinson also joins in, "The earthy notes, the minerality, the pure agave flavor .. this is what I love about tequila."

Perhaps I should have savored the sample a bit more, after all, its delectable, but I am anxious to see what's next and have a comparison point. "Since each vintage comes from a different estate with varying altitudes, each vintage will have a unique flavor and aroma," Haskin adds while pouring the 09 Plata. "This is from our Las Pomez estate which still is very elevated, but doesn't experience the drastic temperature changes of the 08 estate." The 09 hits the glass and then my palate, its not as full-bodied as the 08 but has other characteristics its predecessor does not, vanilla notes and hints of custard. "Whoa," says Ladrido, who hasn't yet tasted this particular vintage "This is delicious!" When Haskin attempts to refresh her class with the reposado, she laughs and pulls away, "I'll finish this one first." Its hard to say which I like better, but that's not really the point here, let people decide which vintage best fits their taste profile and let the terrain speak for itself. Levinson agrees when ask him about whether or not I should be focusing on choosing a vintage or instead enjoying the experience. "Absolutely, these Platas might be the purest essence of agave in the world. Let people pick which they prefer, but regardless of vintage, they'll enjoy the journey of finding out!"

When Haskin moves over to the 09 Reposado, I am immediately hit with another surprise, not as much coloring as I might have imagined, until Haskin drops another bomb, "Our reposado is aged for eight weeks and eight days," clearly continuing the numeric theme of the product. "Only eight days more than the minimum allowed by law," Levinson chimes in, also intrigued, "and it gets that much color in that little time?" Haskin launches into a description of the barrels that are being used for aging, fourth or fifth-used bourbon barrels that have not been re-charred, but by then I am lost in agave heaven. "Classic highland style," Levinson responds with a look of contentment after a measured sip. "Incredible balance between the fruit notes and the acidity," Ladrido echoes after him.

By the time Haskin reaches for the 07 Anejo, I feel as though I am seeing some fairies of my own, except they aren't green and they certainly aren't waving an anise-flavored wand. "Here's the big guy," Haskin says with a knowing smile, "Aged for one year and one day." Again, only one day over the legal limit allowed, and again the coloring relays a disguised punch within a lighter shade than one would expect. "Big time citrus notes," Ladrido says excitedly, "it lost the mint a bit but the caramel and butterscotch is developing." Levinson responds, "This is what it's about." And even Haskin stops pitching for a moment, a hush of quietness falls over all of us even as the frenzied chaos picks up elsewhere in the room.

We swirl and sip the anejo, taking in the moment and the quality of the hand-crafted, traditionally produced product. The night is still very young and there are many more cocktails to be had, but if at least for a few minutes we are transported high into the Mexican mountains. Surrounded by the traditional and artisanal methods of Mexico's greatest import and soaking up the flavors of its terrain, soil and product; the century old concept of the siesta makes so much sense. Surrounded by friends and enjoying the delicious Tequila Ocho mid-Tales siesta, for just a moment, everything seems right in New Orleans.

www.community.nightclub.com

Tequila! (Single-estate Tequila at that)

By Winesleuth

Ocho Tequila

Tequila! Pee-WeeHerman dancing on a counter top in white platform shoes to the beat of the song, "Tequila". Upside-down Margaritas and that irritating whistle they'd blow while maniacally shaking your head. Bringing my own blender to dorm parties. Oh, yeah. Memories of growing up in California and going to university in San Diego, just 40 minutes from the Mexican border and Tijuana-haven for underage US drinkers.

Tequila, like me, would like to shake off those sordid memories and move on, grow up, become a bit more-civilized. Wandering through the recent consumer event, Bibulous, I was drawn like a moth to the fine tequila stand. I took a trip to Monterey, Mexico a few years ago and visited a tequila museum where I was introduced to some quality tequila so I was curious to see what the Mexicans had brought to the shores of Ol' Blighty (and no Jose Cuervo Gold in sight!).

Anejo

The Mexican government has devoted considerable time and money to promoting tequila around the world and part of that initiative is the Tequila Roadshow which rolled into Vinopolis as part of Bibulous a few weeks ago. The Tequila Roadshow is highlighting premium tequila featuring 8 world class brands, all composed of 100% agave; Cuervo Platino, Clase Azul, Tequila Ocho, Campo Azul, Herradura, Olmeca Atos, Tres Generaciones and Casa de Don Agustin.

I walked up and said, "Give me something interesting". Tom Estes, European Tequila Ambassador and the fellow manning the stand, was happy to oblige. At first he suggested, reposado (aged less than a year in oak), than anejo (aged minimum of 1 year, max 3 years in oak), ho-hum. I said interesting. And then he said, "Wanna try some single-estate tequila?" Now you're talking, Tom. Ocho Tequila is the first one to feature a vintage and each are from a single estate which signifies the exact year of harvest and the location of the agave plants. The idea behind single estate tequilas is to highlight the relationship between terroir and the finished product. Ocho Tequilas are made in small quantities and in the traditional, artisanal way of days gone by.

Both tequilas I sampled were crystal clear but swirling around the glass, fat viscous legs were soon apparent. Tom explained to me that the tequilas had not been cold filtered which retained many of the essential oils and esters thereby giving the tequilas a more textured mouthfeel and aromatic character.

Single vineyard Cerrito San Agustin

The first tequila was the 2008 Ocho Tequila from the Las Pomez Ranchos field. I'm accustomed to sniffing and spitting wine, not tequila so here goes. First impressions: spicy, lemony nose, slightly sharpish, peppery but not alcholic, smelling really fresh! Now the real test. Sip, swirl and spit. A rich, almost oily mouthfeel. Hmmm, peppery but not fiery, citrusy, hints of lime and orange, very interesting. Tom was coaching me along but I did detect something other than firewater. The Las Pomez Ranchos fields are located in the highlands of Jalisco while the Cerrito San Agustin is from a different elevation and different soils.

Onto the next clear tequila which was the 2009 Ocho Blanco El Cerrito San Agustin and comparing to see if a difference could be detected because of terroir. A much softer, floral nose, smoother on the palate but also saltier with an olive brine character. I never really thought of tequila as having varying characteristics but just this basic taste test was enough to convince of the concept of tequila terroir. The difference between the two was noticeable.

I had to take my leave of the tequila stand as I was late for a winetasting but it was a palate opening experience. Tequila and I have come a long way from those upside down margaritas. Although I'm sure you can still get them down Mexico way.

www.winesleuth.wordpress.com

Tequila: the bad boy or outlaw - wild and edgy

By Felicity Murray

Tomas Estes, restaurateur and ambassador for tequila in Europe, talks to Felicity Murray about vintages, terroir and his passion for all things Mexican

Having just launched his own brand of tequila, Muestra Numero Ocho (recipe number eight) in London and Paris, Estes is upbeat about the future of tequila, a spirit he describes as "the bad boy or outlaw - wild and edgy".

"My love for tequila started with my love for Mexico. To me, tequila is Mexico and Mexico is tequila - they are so inextricably linked in both their identities and their images. I have loved Mexico for as long as I can remember and have loved tequila since 1960 when, clandestinely at the age of 15, I had my first illicit tequila experience".

Estes grew up within the Mexican community in East Los Angeles where he learnt to appreciate and understand the Mexican culture and language. Despite having a Latin name, the Estes family are Anglo American and he was given his mother's Welsh maiden name of Thomas (which he eventually changed to Tomas as his nom de plume). His first son by his first marriage is also named Tom and Tomas is preparing Tom, along with Jessie one of his three sons from his second marriage, to take over the family's business interests in tequila and Mexican-style restaurants and bars.

So how did Tomas Estes begin this love affair with Mexican food and drink?
"My father took me to Mexico when I was a kid and just learning to read," explains Estes. "I remember seeing all the signs in Spanish and thinking it was so foreign and so exciting. To me Mexican life seemed so immediate and real compared with life in the US which I find artificial, materialistic and status conscious - like living in the head rather than the heart and soul".

Come 1965, Estes was a university student and regularly crossing the border to see his friend who owned a liquor store a few doors down from one of the most outrageous and famous bars on the Pacific coast - Hussong's Cantina. "It's been there for over a 100 years and its still a very serious drinking place," says Estes. "I've heard that in the days before cars they used to ride their donkeys right up to the bar".

Drinking tequila at this famous Long Bar in Tijuana and sleeping off the effects on the beach found him in all sorts of trouble. He is not slow to admit to having spent a few nights behind bars: "I've been a rascal - nothing serious - usually to do with alcohol and all in my youth - but in the Mexican community you are not totally accepted until you've been in jail".

At university he studied social sciences and liberal arts while training and competing as a wrestler (today he keeps fit by cycling). After graduating he gained his teaching credentials and taught English to 13-14 year olds for seven years.

The turning point in Estes' life was a trip to Amsterdam in 1970. "I decided I really wanted to live there - I loved the architecture the music the literature and the radical liberality of it". He says. But he knew he would not get a job teaching in Holland so he had to think up some other way of earning a living. And it was while on a "hippy-style" holiday with his first wife and young son, Tom, travelling through Central America in a VW camper van that inspiration struck. "I realised I could do something that no one else had thought of," he says, "I could open a Mexican restaurant".

In 1976 he succeeded in opening his first Mexican restaurant called Cafe Pacifico, in the red light district of Amsterdam.

"It was a great success right away", he says. "Nobody had ever seen tequila or experienced that kind of atmosphere before - Mexican restaurants have a special kind of buzz and ambience. And it was then that I came to appreciate how central tequila was to my business and I began to delve into it seriously".

He read up on the subject, visited the Agave growing regions of Mexico and talked to the tequila producers. Estes reckons over the years he has served more than 8 million Margaritas in his restaurants and bars in Holland, England, France, Germany - where he has franchises - Italy and now Sydney. "That's a lot of tequila and maybe a lot of hangovers too," he quips. "I have became a central figure in this part of the world because of my activities promoting tequila," he says. "And for that activity the Mexican government have been really kind to me. In 2003 the CNIT (Mexico's national chamber of the tequila industry) gave me recognition as their official ambassador to the EU".

The title certainly helps boost his credibility when it comes to convincing bars they should give space to his tequila. "I've had bars for 32 years and I'm a representative for the whole category - so bartenders are willing to listen to me," he says.

The unique selling point for Estes Muestra Numero Ocho tequila is not just that it is of the highest quality but that the bottle states the year on it - "just for fun" - as well as the actual field from which the agave was grown.

It is the first brand ever to bear a 'tequila vintage'. Not unlike the labelling of fine wines, Ocho's 'tequila vintage' signifies the exact year or harvest and location of the Agave plants that the spirit was derived from, underlining the finely balanced relationship between the terroir and quality of raw materials.

The Ocho Blanco can be traced back to Rancho La Rivera, where the soil is similar to that of the tequila valley, while for the Reposado, the agave has been harvested from the typically rich brown soil of the Los Altos region of Jalisco from Rancho El Vergel.

Although it's not like Burgundy wine - another passion of Estes - he is convinced vintage and terroir does make a difference to a tequila's flavour profile: "We have three examples from three fields and these tequilas are all different yet they were made from agaves of the same maturity and cooked, fermented and distilled in the same way - the terroir does seem to come through".

This is a new adventure for Estes about which he is really excited. "We started working on the new tequilas three years ago and finally got into the market in February. "And thank goodness," he enthuses, "the people I respect most – the bartending community - have embraced it wonderfully. We launched in LA on the 08/08/08 now it's being rolled out in London and Paris".

The tequila is produced for Tomas Estes by the third generation Camerena Family that have been making 100 per cent agave tequila since 1937 in Arandas, Los Altos, and always used "slow" cooking rather than "fast food" mass production methods. They are also responsible for the Tapatio and Tesoro tequila brands.

Tequila, he admits, has a reputation for "bad experiences" but, he says, "that's all part of its bad-boy charm". But real improvements have been made in the
quality of tequila, which he believes began in about 1983 with a brand called Chinaco.

"This brand kick-started the trend for so-called boutique and designer tequilas made in small quantities with greater care and attention. And by early 1990 the market had reacted to the success of this one example. More tequileros started to move away from the making rough stuff that was guaranteed to give you a hangover to launch brands that are premium crafted spirits," he explains. "So more care is now taken of the plants, the cooking, the fermentation and the distillation - right through to marketing. The Mexican government - the CRT (the tequila regulating council) is imposing stricter standards on the tequileros - they are out there every day inspecting the 120 or so distilleries and plantations. The entire tequila industry is working to raise standards and therefore the image. And it's working. It's what everyone wants".

As with spirits generally, the real growth for tequila is in the top quality 100 per cent agave category because, he adds, "the whole spirits market is in a mode of premiumisation and that's where producers in the tequila category are also looking to make their mark. The largest volume market for tequila is the Americas, but Mexicans see the European markets as 'the jewel in their crown'. This is about status, premium product placement and achievement, not just volumes".

Right now, says Estes, there is a glut of agave plants on the market. At its most scarce point, agave was selling at a market price of between 16 and 20 pesos/kilo - 20 pesos for the top quality. Today it's below one peso and according to Estes some farmers have abandoned their fields because it would cost them more to harvest it. The Mexican government reports that there are currently about 350 million plants of all different ages - so not all ready for distillation yet - "but plenty for lots of tequila production in the future".

The Tomas Estes tequilas

The Estes Tomas Muestra Numero Ocho tequila range so-named to represent the eighth, and final, attempt at the ultimate recipe. The producers themselves are in their 8th decade of Tequila production and 8 years is the average age at which Ocho's Agave is harvested. While the Blanco is un-aged, giving a ripe and citrusy flavour, Ocho's Reposado has been rested for precisely 8 weeks and 8 days for smoothness and complexity. Distributed by Inspirit Brands in the UK, Lyons Brown in the US and Maison de Whisky in France

Tomas Estes: CV

1945 - Born in Whittier, California
1967 - BA degree in Social Sciences (Liberal Arts)
1968 - California Teaching Credential for Secondary School
1968-1975 - High school teacher/wrestler and coach
1976 - Opened first Cafe Pacifico, in Amsterdam
1976 to 2008 - Opens 17 restaurants and/or bars in Holland, England, France, Germany, Italy and Australia; talks and writes about tequila in Europe and the US

www.thedrinksreport.com